Weed Control Facts: Winning the Battle of Weeds

Basically, weeds grow from seeds or reproduce from their roots. As the roots grow outward from the mother plant, new plants sprout from the lateral roots, creating more mother plants and the process continues and the weeds thrive. Weeds that tend to reproduce from the roots are often more difficult to control.

Facts about weed control? Weeds are plants and they function as desirable plants in your garden. They need water, sunlight, and nutrition to survive. Of these three key survival needs, the easiest for a gardener to eliminate is sunlight. By means of a suitable padding the solar light can be eliminated.

But first, let's go through the steps you need to take before shredding, then we'll discuss the best shredding techniques to use. For your weed control efforts to be truly effective, you need to do everything in your power to make your gardens as weed-free as possible before planting or fertilizing. There are a couple of ways to do it, either organically or with chemicals. I don't like to use chemicals, but I use them for weed control and use them for pest control when needed.

organic weed control

I'll talk about organic control first. The first thing to do is remove all unwanted vegetation from your planting area. With a hoe, shovel, or other digging device, cut down the roots and remove unwanted plants, roots, and all. Then you must work the land by plowing or turning the land by hand.

Once worked, let the soil rest for about four days and work it again. Keep doing this over and over as time allows. This process has two purposes. It brings the roots left in the soil close to the surface so they can be dried by the sun, which will make them unviable, and it disturbs the weed seeds that have begun to germinate, making them unviable as well. The longer you continue this process, the more weeds you will remove from your garden.

Facts about weed control? Depending on the time of year, there are a few billion weed seeds floating in the air at any given time, so thinking that you can eventually get rid of a weed seed garden is a misconception, but at least this process is effective for the remaining roots, which are the most difficult to control.

Mulching

With that process complete, go ahead and plant your garden. When you're done planting, you can mulch the bed or keep turning the soil weekly to keep it free of weeds. Most people opt for mulch. Mulching not only helps control weeds, but if you select a natural mulch, it also adds organic matter to the soil, which improves gardening results in the future.

Before mulching, you can spread newspaper (7 to 9 layers thick) over the soil and top with the mulch. The newspaper will keep sunlight from reaching the surface of the soil and will help keep weed growth to a minimum. Newspaper will eventually break down and will not permanently alter the makeup of your garden. Paper bags work well too, so the next time you hear "Paper or plastic?" You'll know how to respond.

What about the black plastic or weed barrier fabric sold at garden centers? I don't like it either and I'll tell you why. For one thing, none of them ever go away, and your garden composition is forever altered until you physically remove them, which is a real headache.

Facts about weed control? Plastic is not good for the soil because the soil needs to breathe. Plastic blocks the transfer of water and oxygen and eventually your soil will suffer, as will your garden. It's okay to use plastic in a vegetable garden as long as you remove it at the end of the season and give the soil a chance to breathe.

weed barrier fabric

Weed barrier fabrics allow the soil to breathe, but what happens is that when mulch is placed on top of the fabric, which must be done because the fabric is unsightly, the mulch breaks down and turns to dirt. vegetable. Weeds love the topsoil and will grow like crazy in it. The only problem is that they are growing on the fabric and you are trappedor with a lot of trouble, like a weed garden, and major work trying to remove the fabric that is now firmly anchored in place because the weeds have taken root. via.

Marijuana fabric is also porous enough that if one area is exposed to sunlight, there will be enough of it.We'll take a look and the weeds under the fabric will grow, making their way through the fabric. I don't like things. I took miles off the landscapes for other people because it didn't work out as expected.

Facts about weed control? Controlling weeds with chemicals is fairly easy and very effective if done correctly. I know many people don't approve of chemical weed controls, but millions of people use them, so I could also tell you how to get the most effect from using them.

Herbicides

There are two types of chemical weed controls, post-emergent and pre-emergent. Simply put, a post-emergent herbicide kills actively growing weeds. A pre-emergent prevents weed seeds from germinating. Of the post-emergent herbicides there are selective and non-selective herbicides. A selective herbicide is like the herbicides found in weed and food-type lawn fertilizers. The herbicide will kill broadleaf weeds in your lawn, but it will not harm your lawn.

One of the most popular non-selective herbicides is Round-up®, it kills virtually any plant it touches. Rule number one. Read the labels and follow the safety precautions! Round-up® is very effective when used correctly, but you must first understand how it works.

Round-up® should be sprayed onto the plant's foliage, where it is absorbed, then transferred to the root system where it then kills the plant. It takes about 72 hours for the translocation process to complete, so you don't want to disturb the plant at all for at least 72 hours after it's been sprayed.

After 72 hours, you can dig, chop, rotate, and do pretty much whatever you want because the herbicide has carried over to the entire plant. The manufacturer claims that Round-up® has no residual effect, which means that you can safely plant in an area where Round-up® has been used. However, I wouldn't use it in an orchard without further research.

No residual effect also means that Round-up® has no effect on weed seeds, so there is absolutely no benefit to spraying the soil. Spray only the foliage of the weeds you want to kill. Watch out for overspray that spills onto your desirable plants. To avoid spray drift, I adjust the nozzle of my sprayer so that the dew drops are larger and heavier and less likely to be blown away by the wind. I also keep the pressure in the tank lower by pumping the tank only a minimal number of strokes. Just enough to deliver the spray.

sprinkler

Purchase a sprinkler that you can use as a dedicated sprinkler for Round-up® only. Never use a sprayer that you have used for herbicides for any other purpose. Once you've sprayed the weeds, waited 72 hours, and then removed them, you can go ahead and plant. Mulch is recommended as described above. To prevent weed seeds from germinating, you can apply a pre-emergent herbicide.

Depending on the brand, some of them are applied over the top of the mulch and some are applied to the ground before applying the mulch. A pre-emergent herbicide creates a ground-level vapor barrier that stops weed seed germination and can be very effective in keeping your gardens weed-free. They usually only last 5-6 months and need to be reapplied.

Visit a full-service garden center and seek the advice of a qualified professional in selecting the pre-emergent herbicide that best meets your needs. Never use a pre-emergence herbicide in your garden and be careful around areas where you intend to sow grass seeds. If you spill some in an area where you intend to plant grass, the grass will not grow. They really work.

That's what I know about weed control. Read this article several times. Its success depends on the sequence of events being correct.